SMD Soldering
In this article I will try to explain the methods you need to desolder SMD and especially the one I use most.
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I have to say that despite what everyone thinks, so the task of de-soldering and soldering the SMD components or integrated circuits is quite easy to not
should be an obstacle for any repair technician, provided you follow some basic steps.
It is also true and I should mention that any mistake when desoldering SMD circuit, it's going to take its toll at the time of soldering, when the going gets tough.
Today, according to integrated circuit (because there are some who bring them), the least difficult for me with the method I use is unsolder apart with this method I can reuse these chips if they are defective .
I have used four ways to desolder SMD integrated circuits.
- Hot Air Gun.
- Tips to fit the circuit.
- Pasta green zapper.
- Chip Quik SMD 1.
Apart from mentioning everyone has ever used, which is a piece of string or a very fine soldering tip, be lifted pin to pin of the IC. But I do not think this is a great way to build integrated, and that once removed from the integrated circuit is unusable, not to mention the board.
This is a very known throughout the world and use it in many workshops, with better technology or phenomenon. I mean there's enough hot air stations valid. I on the other hand, when using this system, two or three times what I made with a heat gun.
The system works, but I do not like, because you have to be very aware of the heat injected into the circuit. It is clear that you are giving heat proportionally to the PCB and if you spend bubbles begin to sprout and you can lift the copper tracks.
Maybe if I was going to use this system is that we protect the integrated circuit board around the heat, with some thermal tape.
This method excites me at first because it seemed perfect, since you bought the exact point for your chip, and as perfectly suited to the four sides of it, provided the same heat at the same time for all legs.
So far perfect, sprayed with tin the ends, the approaches to the integrated circuit and closed waiting for it to warm their feet. Once hot all legs of the tweezers were throwing up and went with them integrated. The problem comes when you've warmed tweezers two or three times, the rivet that attaches to the body lost consistency and began to dance on all sides, with the resulting disaster in the PCB, since you can not be securely against
and integrated heat distribution is not uniform, so you may think all feet are hot and pulling up, raising a few tracks.
This is a paste that sent me, but have withdrawn from the market, I do not know if it is toxic or what happened.
The truth is that it worked very well. He smears all legs of the integrated circuit, then move the tool tip on each side, and the paste becomes a liquid for about 10 seconds, giving you time to drop the iron and
tweezers out quietly integrated.
The integrator can be reused because it has not been heat slightly and the legs are not bent.
Pasta can not find this anywhere.
This is what I've discovered that I'm going to desolder better integrated into MDS.
Kitt is a desoldering composed a piece of tin with small amounts of lead to keep it longer liquid, a syringe with resin and some wipes to clean the circuit board.
The method is simple. Extiedes a bit of resin with the syringe into the legs of the integrated circuit. This is for the tin flow. Then using the soldering tin extend Kitt has the legs for all integrated together with it. Once extended heat a little on all sides and we can extract the SMD circuit as tin is liquid at least 15 seconds. This is the cleanest way to desolder an integrated circuit, without forcing or raise ideas.
Once outside the circuit SMD, cleaned with suction desoldering printed circuit remains of tin and had a towel over it to clean debris.
The circuit we have removed so we can re-use because we have not applied heat and we have not only doubled the legs.
This is the easier or more difficult depending on how we made the desoldering of the old integrated circuit. If all went well in the desoldering, here we should not have problems.
Most importantly, square well integrated into the printed circuit board (use all the time in center) and that this will depend on the good weld. Sometimes I do not square well, and has given me many problems as it can seal a leg with the other track.
Once fully square with the help of a liquid flux is used for welding. What makes this, is that the tin to flow through the circuit board and can not collect where there is no track or leg.
Once extended the flux with the help of the right tip of the welder must always be a miniola tip, we'll take the tin back and forth, depositing only needed on each leg. This is achieved with the addition of flux, with the tip of miniola. This is a small reservoir at the tip, in which
tin will drop and it is this drop with the welded we built. In going from the tip of the legs just the right amount remaining will drop the rest in the small tank.
I count three points miniola.
A more or less great than I used for most standard SMD integrated circuits and two smaller and integrated curves depending on the MDS are more or less valid. The most use is the medium size, unless some gap between me not because of the proximity of another component to be welded integrated with what would have to put the smallest.
With all this I encourage you to try a circuit desoldering SMD, it is not difficult.
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